Speedster body Assembly

Render using Fusion 360

Speedster body Assembly 

The doors are a neat fit and may need to be sanded or use a dremel with a small barrel sander to clean up the body door gap, then check the door fit. You can decide if you want the doors to open or welded shut. My first prototype had the doors welded shut and the red speedster has doors that open. Note you should use the doors as a guide when gluing or heat stacking the roof , back , rails and front together.
 The hinges are glued or heat staked to body first and like any "hanging of a door" the door is carefully positioned then (I heat staked on the outside then carefully removed the door and heat staked it on the inside.) I guess there could be a number of ways to do this but that is what i did. I also found on my third build I could use a slightly larger brad ( nail) with its head cut off and cut to size and push fit into hinges. ( the first prototype the doors were glued in place and do not open) the second used a 12mm brad and were slightly loose.

If required I have included a part option- (38A)  door lock rotate arm.

designing a lock piece that fits to the door handle shaft, the arm rotates and fits is slot in fire wall.

 I think that is the hardest part of the build, you could sand all the parts smooth first if you like.
I gave all parts a medium amount of prep before applying spray putty, though i had to use filler on the back roof as the heat of the 3d printer plate melted the roof pla in some places,I filled and sanded around where I heat staked the roof to the body .

see the video for  all steps 

https://youtu.be/5gwQccAhlqg

end.
I had a thought printing the doors at 99% scale would make them slightly smaller and they would not require any sanding.
Some assembly photos for CAD.
You can clearly see the layout of the cab.

the grill surround is a part of a new model i am working on. 

Printing guide for Speedster

Salt Flat Speedster Printing Guide- use as a guide only,
There are many ways to print these parts dependent on your printer,software,your knowledge etc. Listed is how I went about it using Slic3rPE and Prusa i3 mk3 printer and  a small number of parts using Makerbot replicator 2.
Chassis

parts
1,2,3,4,5,6, these parts make up the main chassis.

 Next build is for the rear end
7 linkbar rear ,
17 rear axle short (2),
18 rear axle centre,
19 bearing blank (2) ( if you are not using the 5mm by 16 mm bearing),
20 & 21 Rear Link arms
Chassis frame -you will need some bamboo skewers (3mm dia) or similar to
locate these parts. I also heat staked/welded them together







parts 17  and 19 are printed standing up

 18 the diff is place on the tail shaft entry face
and i only used support up to the base
of the axle hole

 parts 8,9,10 & 11 were printed together all have flat sides

 22 hubs printed with support

 23 bomber seat was printer on its side, no support required
12 & 13 floor printed standing on end support used , floors shown on chassis here

 15 steering rod and 16 tail shaft simple prints

that completes parts 1 to 23 chassis,floor seats, front end

Body
24 to 36
24 back . i adjusted the width of the support to 5 mm and printed at 0.2

 25 & 26
bonnet/hood sides

 27 bonnet / hood support used

28 boot lid with support

 29 roof  support for only about 20 to 30 layers ( printing like this it got a bit hot and distorted the roof facing the build plate) so not sure what to do here just be aware)

30 fire wall with hinge slots

 31& 32 grill and surround uses support
31 is flat print with fine setting

33 & 34 doors support to about 20 layer

35 and 36 side rails these were printed on their side.

37 to 49

mostly flat builds i used brim on the gear stick  37 and  as it lifted.
Head lights use support. 46, 47
head light glass 43 printed standing up to get effect

50 to 57 V8 flathead blown twin carbs
Block and auto build on flat back
Heads standing or laying down

assembled picture

57 manifold  with support bth sides are the same so 2 required .

58 to 63 wheels

 rear discs 60

painted

I used to use semi flex for tyres now i just print with pla and mat or semi gloss paint.

end .

Salt Flat Speeder

Salt Flat Speedster 

https://youtu.be/mor_xq850hE

Yes, I have thought about this model for along time and finally decided to start modelling at a feverish pace.

some inspiration shots  

salt flats pins 

https://pin.it/bicuu23qvwo6jh

Also the 

Worlds fastest Indian

https://youtu.be/P6YzvG6IGQc 

more inspiration

https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/33-34-ford-coupe-bodies.220372/page-29 

Well its a mix of 1930's Coupes  its like painting a picture and as you go along you create a piece of art . Then you engineer it to make it fit together, modify it so you can 3D print it on an FDM printer.

Modify it again so you can uses screws to assemble it .  It is a process you do to create this idea you have in your mind, taking in all your thoughts, pictures viewed, stories you have read, movies watched, experience from the models you have all ready designed and modeled and assembled. 

Then you change a lot of the parts you don,t see to make it work,fit together, like smoothing out all the bumps, so it feels right looks right sits right. then you change another couple of things then yes I'm happy. 

Then you work on the wheels new design or something I have used in the past? 

Something new i had a memory of my Bugatti vintage model kits i built from about 30 years ago  the racing wheel with the straight  arms joining the hub to the rim, Yes I"ll model something like that. though i noticed many salt lake machines have a plain full metal pressed rim or a dome wheel cover but I like the strong feel of the parallel arms  reaching out to the rim. 

Then you have to think of size rim and tyre, then model them up and as in this case model them again to change the size. All this remodelling you start to change the way you model,  you model to enable editing of your designs. it is a big learning curve .

Finished Finally

opened or closed side hood panels